Ask The Clothing Doctor
Welcome to the Mac-Gray laundry forum! I am Steve Boorstein, The Clothing Doctor. I will be your clothing care expert. I spent 20 years in the high-end drycleaning business, but I've also written four books on laundry and hosted two DVDs on clothing care, so I know about dirty laundry! Write me about caring for everything made from fabric; washing, cleaning, stain removal and storage.
Before I begin answering questions, let's get a few facts straight:
Before you treat a stain, make sure you know if it's watery or oily!
- Water-based stains contain water, NO oil.
- You can identify water-based stains such as coffee, wine, beer and blood because they have a ring around the outside (like a road map).
- Water-based stains need water or club soda (and an occasional "stain stick").
- Oil-based stains contain oil, but NO water, so water and soap will not help to remove them!
- Oil-based stains such as butter, mayonnaise, and olive oil will look blotchy and have NO ring around the stain.
- Most oily stains require drycleaning.
- Oily stains that do not come out in the wash will look blotchy after washing.
Know a few first aid hints:
- Never rub a fabric — blot only with a dry white cloth or napkin.
- Be careful about putting water or club soda on dryclean-only clothing, such as silk and acetate, because they can bleed the dye and cause rings.
- If in doubt, blot with a dry white cloth and STOP, until you can write me or show the garment to a professional.
Do I just need to separate my laundry by lights/darks, or fabric type, too?
Answer: The short answer is yes. It is always best to sort and classify — even with the challenge of doing laundry at college — and here’s why:
- Black, red, green and other deep colors can bleed onto other lighter garments even in cold water, at least the first time the garment is washed. So, keep the dark colors together. You may want to wash red and black separately for the first washing.
- Keep “whites” and light pastels together to keep them bright.
- Heavy or “hard-tailored” items such as jeans should not be in the same load as delicate clothing.
- Lastly, very soiled clothing, be it beer splashed or vomit covered, should be rinsed in the sink and then washed separately!
I got a stain (ketchup) on my shirt a week ago, and didn’t treat it, can I save my shirt in the laundry or is it too late?
Answer: Ketchup, like beer, wine, coffee, and sweat are all water-based and can be treated with water immediately, so at a minimum, be sure to rinse out the garment in cool water if you can’t wash it for a few days. This stain, depending on the color of the fabric, can usually be removed with pretreatment followed by washing.
Are all detergents effective or do the more expensive ones clean better?
Answer: No, you usually get what you pay for. But unless the clothing is very soiled (use Tide) or very delicate (use The Laundress), most “average” detergents will do the job.
Can I wash my white-tanish cargo pants with blue jeans or dry them together?
- Roland Sanchez
Answer: Hi Roland, thanks for writing. As funny as it may seem, I can't give you a simple answer because of the variables:
If the blue jeans have been washed before
How deep the blue is in the jeans — or how faded they are
How much synthetic there is in the fabric (or blend)
The temperature of the wash water ...
With that being said, I would wash the jeans alone, or with a white towel, to see how much the color bleeds onto the white towel or rag. If there's dye on the white item, then you have your answer. Removing blue dye from Cargo pants, without ruining them is very complicated and risky. If the blue jeans don't bleed onto the towel then you're probably okay, especially if you use cold water. Feel free to write back with any questions.
I hope this helps!
Steve Boorstein, The Clothing Doctor
Hi! At home, I usually washed my clothes in cold water on the delicate cycle. But at college, the delicate cycle automatically uses warm water. I noticed that the woolen cycle uses cold water. Is the woolen cycle an acceptable alternative to delicate, but just with cold water?
- Amelia
Answer: Hi Amelia,
Yes, the woolen cycle uses cold water and will work as an alternative to the gentle cycle. However, if you have ground-in stains or specific soil, then consider pre-treating the area before washing.
Best,
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
I wash and dry a full (possibly too big?) load every week using high efficiency detergent, and lately my clothes have been coming out very damp and smelly. Will simply drying the clothing more fix the smell, or should I switch or use more detergent?
- Dan
Answer: Thanks for your question Dan.
It’s hard to tell if your laundry load is too large without seeing it, but from your description it sounds like that may be the case. Remember to pile clothes into the washer loosely, rather than stuffing them in. The clothes need a little room to move in order to be cleaned and then spun out effectively. Same thing goes for the dryer, clothes need room to billow to be dried completely.
Don’t use more detergent, that won’t help. In fact, too much detergent doesn’t clean better. It leaves residue on your clothing and can cause over-sudsing which could make the machine malfunction during the cycle. Also, you should remove your clothes from the washer promptly when the cycle is complete to minimize odor. After removing your clothing, it's also helpful to leave the washer door open to let it air out after each load.
And finally, be sure to clean the dryer lint filter before you dry your clothes. This helps maximize air flow which improves the efficiency of the dryer to get the job done in one cycle.
Hope this helps!
I am currently involved in a debate over cold-water usage for sustainability reasons. Is laundry detergent less efficient when used with cold water? What is the coldest water temperature that will still wash laundry effectively?
- DW
Answer: Thank you for your question. It is true that cold water cycles are much more environmentally-friendly than traditional hot water or warm water cycles. This is because most of the energy exerted by your washer (70 – 90% depending on washer type) is dedicated to heating the water. Cold water cycles effectively clean normally soiled clothing when used properly. Laundry detergent disperses more slowly in cold water, so it’s best to avoid powder detergent, and if possible select detergent specially formulated for cold water washing. In some cases, cold water cycles can be even more effective at cleaning clothes than hot water cycles since certain stains are actually lifted more easily when treated with cold water. For example, cold water assists in removing protein stains like blood or egg, but hot water is likely to set this stain in the clothing. If you have any stains, especially oil-based stains, it is always best to pre-treat it before washing it in cold water just to be safe. Remember that many organic oil stains (food oils) are more difficult to remove than machine oils, and may require dry cleaning or very hot wash water.
Finally, you bring up the important point of water temperature. Water temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit are not as effective at cleaning clothing. Generally-accepted cold water guidelines vary, but as long as you take the appropriate steps for your cold water wash, your clothing should be effectively cleaned at 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Be aware that wash temperatures vary with the seasons (water temperatures can hit the 30s in winter), so you may need to consider using a warm cycle if you live in a very cold climate. In warmer parts of the country, this isn’t typically an issue.
I got wax on my skirt; the kind you use for hair removal that hardens quickly, and it didn't come off in the wash. How on earth do I get it off?
- Gabrielle
Answer: Gabrielle, wax CAN be one of the easiest stains to remove, but it requires either dry cleaning — which removes it in minutes — or a number of processes at home. The one concern is the color of the wax. White or clear wax is the easiest. Gabrielle, you did not mention if the skirt is washable or requires dry cleaning, but if you care about the skirt and are willing to invest in dry cleaning, it is the least painless approach, and it takes the responsibility off of you. If you want to try it yourself, you have a few choices:
You can put the skirt in a large ziplock bag and "freeze" the wax, and then carefully crack and chip it off, using a dull butter knife or spoon.
Then scrape off all the wax you can and place a piece of paper bag above and below the wax. Then use a hot iron on the paper bag, above the wax stain. In many cases, the wax will melt and be absorbed onto the paper bag.
If it's colored wax, or if there is a wax residue, then use "Goof Off" (sparingly) or some other "solvent-type solution to "melt" or dissolve the wax remnant. Then wash as usual (unless it requires dry cleaning)!
Thanks,
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
Every time I get a new sweater and wash it, little puffballs appear and ruin the sweater. What am I doing wrong?
-Naomi
Answer: I assume you are referring to “pill balls.” Pills often form because of friction; rubbing against a layer of clothing or a piece of furniture, or from rubbing against itself and other garments in the washing machine and dryer. Pills can also form because of the type and length of the yarn, and how “tightly" it is wound. Acrylic, cashmere and merino sweaters are the most susceptible to pill balls!
To minimize pilling, use mesh wash nets when washing and drying. This will keep the sweater from touching other garments during agitation. Quality also has a lot to do with pilling. Pill balls can often be improved or removed with a battery-operated depiller or a single-edge disposable razor. Depill slowly and check your work regularly, so you don’t thin the sweater too much! Look to the light to see how you are doing.
Steve, The Clothing Doctor
Hello! I bought a new bright colored shirt, didn't wash it first, and paired it with a white shirt. Needless to say, anywhere I sweat the color bled onto the white shirt. Lesson learned but now I am not sure how to get the color out of the white.
- Caroline
Answer: Hello Caroline, Thanks for writing. I'm sorry to hear about your travails with "loose" dye! Yes, dyes can "migrate" or bleed from deep colors to lighter colors from perspiration, so it's best to wash new, striped, printed, or bright-colored clothing before wearing. However, dyes can migrate from dry fabrics, as well, from rubbing against other clothing. Fortunately for you, the affected shirt is pure white (versus printed or pale yellow). You have a couple of options for restoration that should remove ALL the colored dye from the white shirt. Here are the options and steps:
- You can wash the white shirt, alone, or with other white garments, which may remove the dye (but be sure to AIR DRY the shirt — do not tumble dry).
- You can add a scoop of OxiClean Versatile or Clorox 2, or some other color-safe bleach to the load to assist in the dye removal.
- If the shirt still has dye residue after this process, you can soak the shirt in a 4" of warm water, with soap and color-safe bleach for thirty minutes, then rinse and AIR DRY.
- If you still have dye stains, then a dye-stripper or dye remover would probably remove the rest of the discoloration. You could use RIT DYE REMOVER or some similar product.
- Follow directions, as stated on the bottle of RIT, but be sure to air dry again until you are certain that ALL the dye was removed.
Hi, I have a down comforter that just happens to be covered in vomit. I don't have the time, money or transportation to take it to the dry cleaners (and I need it to sleep tonight, i'll freeze otherwise). My girlfriend's mom suggested taking a sponge and dish soap to it, but that doesn't seem to be working so well. Suggestions?
Thanks,
Jake
Answer: Dear Jake,
Thanks for writing. I am answering immediately so you won't be cold tonight :)
Ah, college life, how I miss it! I assume you do not have a duvet cover on the comforter, but I would recommend that you get one asap, so the next time you vomit you will only have to clean the cover!
Okay, you have a few choices. First, your girlfriend's Mom is not that far off if it's a small stain, but it would probably still stink. Down is usually washable, but you will need a front-load washer because of the size and weight of the comforter. You may have one on campus, or at a laundromat nearby.
First and foremost, you MUST carefully inspect every seam to make sure there are NO holes or tears, otherwise you will lose most of the down feathers during cleaning.
- Wrap the comforter in a trash bag or a sheet to transport it to the washing machine, and bring along a pair of tennis shoes or some tennis balls (to help fluff the feathers during drying and to keep them from bunching up, hence reducing the insulating value).
- Load the comforter into the front-load machine, add the detergent, and then wait for the load to finish.
- After washing, carefully lift the comforter into a dryer, and then throw the shoes or balls in.
- Bring some extra coins or dollar bills because drying takes a long time. Down smells horrible when it's wet, so you will know when it's really dry!
Thanks,
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
Hi, I just bought a new shirt with lace-type material around the neckline. The instructions said to tumble dry low, so I tumble dried low, and the detailing around the neckline came out all shriveled. I guess I should have let it air dry, but I was doing what the tag said! Is there a way I can stretch the lace part out again so the material around it isn't all puckered and weird?
- Chelsea
Answer: Hi Chelsea,
Sorry to hear about your troubles. You can re-wet the blouse and then air dry it (versus tumbling). You should lay it flat and then manually "flatten" the crochet bits, as they dry. This may restore some of the body and texture. You may even try an iron, if the care tag allows it (or even of or doesn't).
If that doesn't work, then the blouse should be returned to the retailer. This may not be possible, but clothing makers and retailers need to know if a garment is defective, or if it cannot withstand the care instructions. Returning the garment may be the only way the retailer will know that the blouse does not adhere to the labeling laws. This care label is actually in violation of the FTC labeling law, so feel good about keeping the manufacturer honest!
Good luck. Write back if you need further guidance on this matter!
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
I have a bunch of nice, career-wear shirts that say "hand wash only" on the tag. This is impossible at college! The sink in my community style bathroom is too gross, and washing it in the shower would make me a weirdo. What's the best way to clean these shirts using a washing machine?
- Chelsea
Answer: Hi Chelsea,
Thanks for writing. I agree with your assessment — and how hard it is to do "special" treatments on campus. (I live in Boulder, five blocks from the CU campus.) You didn't mention the fabric content, but most clothing that can or "should" be hand washed can also be machine washed on a delicate cycle. If the shirts look like they can withstand machine washing, then they probably can. It's hard to say for sure without seeing them — as there are often exceptions — but this is rarely the case with career shirts! I will list a few concerns and you can take it from there:
"Hot" colors such as red, deep green, blue, black and purple can bleed onto other garments the first time they are washed, so either hand wash separately, or machine wash alone.
Garments with stones, beads, and other ornamentation, may need hand washing, but can often be turned inside out and safely machine washed. (You can also buy a few mesh wash nets to help protect ornaments, available at www.clothingdoctor.com) Nets work well for loose socks, bras, and other small items.
Shirts like this may have a hand wash tag to avoid very hot water or to eliminate tumble drying —especially if they contain lycra/spandex or some other stretch material that weakens in high heat. Tumbling may cause shrinkage or fading, so check the tag for drying instructions and then consider tumble drying on low heat.
Lastly, if none of this makes sense, then call the manufacturer and ask the tech department. This process is actually easier to do than you'd think, but it might take 15 minutes to get the right phone number!
Good luck, and write back or call if you need additional help.
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
I was just out painting and I got paint on my tan Northface Vest, what can I do to get it out?
Answer: Hello Adrienne,
I wish I could tell you this was an easy fix, but without knowing the type of paint (Oil or Latex), the size of the stain (a "swipe," dime size, or larger), and the colors of the vest and the paint, it's hard to advise!
I will say the following and hope one of them will help! First off, read the care label to see if the vest requires washing, drycleaning, or allows both. Second, if the vest means a lot to you, and you want the "easy" way out, take it to the best drycleaner in town and talk directly to the manager or owner to get a prognosis.
Assuming you want to try removal on your own, and the stain is smaller than a dime, and its latex paint:
Test a very small area of the stain with a Q-Tip and soapy water. Blot the stain until it softens. Allow the Q-Tip to remain on the stain for a full minute. (If it doesn't soften or bleed at all, then the paint is probably Oil and you should take the vest to the cleaners. Seriously!)
If the paint does start to bleed, then it's latex (not oil). If it seems to be working, then re-dip the Q-Tip in soapy water, and repeat the process until the paint completely stops bleeding.
Once it's stopped, try Spray and Wash or some other soapy stain remover, then blot with a dry white cloth until it's mostly dry.
You are taking a chance by washing it — as the stain may not come out — so AIR DRY the vest and then re-inspect it once it's dry. If it's better, but not completely out, then repeat the whole process.
I hope this helped. If not, or you are too concerned about trying it in the first place, entrust it to the drycleaner or call me directly at 303.443.3232
Good luck,
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
How do I keep my shirt collars flat without ironing?
- Jeff
Answer: Hi Jeff,
I will assume the shirts are made of cotton, as they typically get the most wrinkles. I assume you do not have a small travel iron for your dorm or don't want to buy one? I know ironing can be a pain and you do not have an ironing board. I can offer a few solutions to try, without the use of an iron, but without more information it's hard to be exact.
You can try smoothing the collars with your hand after washing, and before drying: Allowing the collars to dry in the "smoothed" condition. You may even want to try hanging the shirt and and air drying, as an experiment.
You could try re-wetting the collar after washing and drying, and then smoothing the collar by hand.
You could also purchase a travel steamer, small but efficient. it may not work on all wrinkles as well as an iron, but it's quicker. Visit http://www.clothingdoctor.com/tiny/12
Lastly,you may want to ask a fellow female student to help you, as they may have more experience with this dilemma than you!
Best of luck,
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
I wasn't very careful with my laundry and didn't separate the colors. I looked at 2 of my white shirts and noticed that where there had been armpit stains, they've turned greyish. Will bleach help to get the stains out or is there any alternative?
- Mellissa
Answer: Hi Mellissa,
Thanks for writing. Discolored underarms are the number one problem we face, and it's the most asked question. I am not sure that the greying is a result of failing to classify colors when washing. Perspiration starts out clear, but once the sweaty garment is "left alone" at he bottom of the closet or in a basket for a few days or a week, the clear stain oxidizes and can take on color ... yellow or sometimes grey. I don't have a quick fix for you, but I do have some preventive advice for your other clothing — and maybe a solution for this particular shirt.
Preventive Care
- Do NOT wear a soiled garment more than once, as the perspiration will become twice as hard to remove!
- After wearing a shirt, once, take a toothbrush and some soapy water and "work" the underarms to break up the sweat. Then you can throw it in the wash pile for a few days — or as soon as you can wash it — with fewer worries. There should be NO downside to this as long as the shirt is washable.
- Re-wet and re-treat the underarms again just before washing.
- Air dry ALL stained garments — unless you know the stain has been removed during pre-treatment — or the heat of drying may set the stain permanently. Re-inspect after washing and before drying to be sure.
This is a tried and true process that works, but preventive care makes everything easier.
Best of luck,
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
Hi, I wore my mother's 100% cotton fuchsia shirt yesterday. I use arm & hammer baking soda for deodorant. It was unseasonably hot and when I began perspiring purple circles formed in the arm pits. Please tell me there's something I can do to save her favorite shirt. She always dry cleans it. Thank you.
- Ciel
Answer: Hi Ciel, thanks for writing. Perspiration stains are the number one garment killer, especially in warmer months. The purple "color change" under the arms is very common. I would pre-treat the underarms with a water/detergent mix ASAP.
- Use a worn toothbrush to gently work the solution into the underarms before washing. Wash the blouse as hot as you can, without it fading or bleeding.
- Be SURE to air dry (not in the dryer), so the heat will not "set" the underarm stains if they do not come out.
- If the purple rings still show, you can soak the blouse in color-safe bleach for 30 minutes, which may remove the last trace of the stain.
- Lastly, if you do not feel comfortable doing this yourself, then take the blouse to the BEST drycleaner in your area and show then the color change. They may be able to reverse the purple lines with the proper chemical.
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Was eating a salad with oil/vinegar. Got 3 spots on red t-shirt. it wa pre-treated with shout spray. It was cold wash/do not tumble dry (drip dry it said). By accident ended up in dryer on low. stain is still there. any thoughts?
- will
Answer: Hi Will,
The best part is that you identified the stain as oil/vinegar. If you remember science class, you will recall that oil and water do NOT mix! We are under the misconception that Shout and other commercial stain removers (that work well on water-based stains) will also remove oily stains. In most cases this is not accurate!
The good news is that you washed it cold and did NOT tumble dry it! Your only option is to have the shirt drycleaned. I know it seems like overkill to pay to have a T-shirt drycleaned, but it is your only hope. The cold water wash may compromise complete removal, but there's a very good chance that it will work. You can ask them not to "press" it, which may save you a few bucks!
Good luck,
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
I don't separate many of my clothes before washing, other than lights, darks and delicates. Recently, we have noticed some clothes being left with a smell after washing. We use Soapnuts, essential oil, & fabric softener. We think more fabric softener will help, but we're trying to be eco & economically friendly by using soapnuts in the first place! It might be from not separating things like socks, towels and underwear from the rest of the wash. Or perhaps we should consider a pre-wash?
- Dwain
Answer: Dwain,
Thanks for writing. Soapnuts are a natural fabric softener and a natural odor remover. They help to reduce odor in diapers and other personal items. I also know that cold water does not remove soil as well as hot water (or as well as Tide for Cold Water). Given that you are trying to be as Green as possible with your ingredients and water temperature, I would try the following:
- Start classifying dirty socks and undies — and other heavily soiled clothing — into their own load
- Stop using fabric softener for 30-60 days (you could try adding a teaspoon of vinegar instead). Do not increase the amount of softener!
- I don't know if you have a top-load or a front-load, but your washer may have some residual odor that needs to be removed. You can use 1/2 cup of Clorox bleach in an "empty" load to disinfect the inside. Or, you could use a Whirlpool or Tide product designed to do the same thing ... just this once!
- If none of this works, feel free to contact us directly at info@clothingdoctor.com
Good luck,
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Hello! I am fighting bed bugs and would like to know if freezing my delicate clothing in my home deep freezer can damage them thanks
- amalia
Answer: Amalia, I am very sorry to hear that you have problems with bed bugs. Fact is, bed bugs are becoming the number one nuisance and epidemic. The bugs can be killed by exposure to extreme heat or extreme cold — like the cold in the freezer. I've had some experience with this, so I know it's very hard to beat them on your own, without professional help. I think it's best to share these steps so everyone can benefit:
- Remove all covering or padding from the infected items, such as plastic bags, newspapers or cardboard. (They could aid in insulating the infected items.)
- Place all affected items that in the freezer.
- Keep the freezer at a constant temperature below 0 degrees Fahrenheit for two weeks. (Zero Fahrenheit equals -17 Celsius) Do not open freezer for prolonged because any fluctuations could allow bed bugs to "re-heat."
- Allow two weeks before removing the affected items. Then place the items in an enclosed area, such as a bucket or tub filled with water. (This will trap any living bugs.)
- If any are still moving around, put the infected items back in the freezer for an additional week.
This information came from a professional, so I wish you luck!
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
I left my yellow hat in the wash with my whites and it bled leaving my clothes with yellow spots. I dried the items before I realized my error. I tried washing in oxy-clean and it did no good. The majority of the clothes are white cotton so I assume I can bleach them. I am not sure of: 2 100% polyester running shirts, a linen button up, 100% cotton and Poly/cotton blend chef coats with embroidering, a cotton polo with gray embroidering, and a 100% cotton off-white. What can I do?
- Nate
Answer: Hi Nate, very sorry to hear this. Dye transfer and dye bleeding are both difficult to restore, especially with colored items. First, drying the garments does not help your cause, as you already know. And yellow dye can be stubborn, but at least it's not green or blue! You have a few choices:
- Rit Dye Remover should help to remove the dye from your white garments, followed by bleaching to remove the last trace of yellow. You can even use the Rit with a Q-Tip on specific yellow spots.
- Polyester workout gear is trickier. You can read the instructions, but Rit can sometimes work with colored items, in the right strength, in the right water temp, for the right amount of time. But, you may want to show the colored garments to the "best" drycleaner in your area to get an opinion from them.
- If you try all this on your own, take it a step at a time; run one shirt through the whole process before starting on the next!
Nate, keep in mind that I am available to help you — and all college students — through this process. Lastly, we sell a product on our website called Dye Lock. If you had used one of these strips to "lock-in" the dyes before washing, you may not have had the yellow dye problem, so think about buying a pack of these. Each strip lasts 25-30 washings (which is probably more than you do in a year!).
Best of luck,
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Can I dry whites and darks together?
- Joanne
Answer: Hi Joanne, thanks for writing! This is a loaded question, but it really depends on the fabric, the type of dyes — your comfort zone — and whether you are talking about "black and navy" as dark items. I assume you want dry dark and white together to save time? In most cases, a dark pair of blue jeans can be dried with lighter colors, but if the jeans are Indigo dyed — like many of the 7 for All Mankind — you may still have some dye bleeding or "rubbing" occurring during the drying cycle. I dry "darks and lights" together all the time, but rarely WHITE and dark. However, if you still want to do this, then rub a white cloth against the dark items before putting in the dryer. If dark dye comes off on the white towel, then it may be risky. By the way. we now sell a a product called Dye-Lock that "seals" dyes in the washer, so reds don't bleed onto white, etc. You can get this on www.clothingdoctor.com if you are interested.
Good luck!
Steve Boorstein - The Clothing Doctor
My girlfriend washed a new multi-colored shirt of hers that was supposed to be hand-washed in cold water, and she washed it in warm water and the blue ran into the yellow! Is there any way for her to get the blue out of the yellow? Thank you, Fred
Answer: Fred, I am sorry to hear that! I hope it didn't bleed onto anything else. There are a few possibilities, but none are guaranteed. If this shirt is important to you, you may want to consult a GOOD drycleaner:
First, rewash in warm water (to loosen dyes)
You could try a RIT Dye to "separate or strip" out the blue dye. This is tricky and may take some experimentation.
You could check with the store where it was purchased, as warm water should not have bled the dyes, unless the dyes were unstable in the beginning.
I hope this helps! - Steve - The Clothing Doctor
Hi, I have a question about the washing machine. We have 6 functions: Hot, Perm. Press, Colors, Delicates & Knits, Quick Cycle, and Brights. I have clothing that requires cold water - not fast spin cycle. I've used Normal or Wool functions for this, but our machine does not have that option. I think Delicates & Knits is a fast cycle, but that is warm wash. Brights is a cold wash, but a slow spin cycle. On which function can I wash my clothing best: Brights or Delicates & Knits? Thanks,
Laura
Answer: Hi Laura,
Thank you so much for your question!
To start, you are correct that most clothing would benefit from being washed in a cold water cycle. Not only does cold water clean just as effectively as warmer water - it preserves colors and fabrics as well. And, it's green! Since up to 70% of the energy exerted by the washer is used to heat the water, choosing cold water cycles saves energy and our planet!
To answer your question: the cycle options on different washing machines vary slightly - but the cycle settings on our newest High-Efficiency Front-Load Maytag machines are as follows:
Whites - Hot - Medium Speed
Colors - Warm - Medium Speed
Bright Colors - Cold - Fast Speed
Delicates & Knits - Warm - Slow Speed
Perm. Press - Warm - Medium Speed
Quick Wash - Warm - Medium Speed
Depending on the type of clothing and the amount of colors, you should choose between the Bright Colors and Delicates & Knits cycle. And remember: extremely soiled clothing may need a hotter cycle to clean completely.
Hi! Can you tell me how many degrees is warm wash (Delicates and Knits) Is that 30 or 40 degrees? Thanks!
- Lisa
Answer: Hi Lisa,
Thank you for your question!
A warm water wash is typically 85-105 degrees Fahrenheit. (30-40 Celsius)
A hot water wash is typically 120 degrees Fahrenheit. (Approximately 50 Celsius)
A cold water wash is typically 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit. (20-25 Celsius)
In winter months, in regions where it tends to get colder, these temperatures may drop slightly, so please keep that in mind when choosing your wash cycles.
Hello. I washed a load of white cotton shirts and threw then in the dryer, but because they did not dry completely, I threw in the next load that needed to be dried too. However the second load was a mix of jeans and other darks. I noticed that my whites now have what looks like dye from the jeans have rubbed on the whites. How can I removed the transferred dye from the whites? Thanks!
- Candice
Answer: Candice, sorry to hear about your dye woes! It's good that the tainted shirts are white, because white is the easiest color to restore. I would do the following:
- Pre-treat the dyed spots with whatever stain remover you have, but Spray & Wash is good for that. Let it sit on the dye for 5-10 minutes. Re-apply if it's working.
- Re-wash the white shirts as hot as possible —but don't tumble dry
- If the dye is still there after air drying, then buy some RIT Dye Stripper (or Dye Remover) and follow the directions.
- If the "loose" dye still remains after the RIT, then soak the shirts in hot water and color-safe bleach for 30-60 minutes. You can use a bucket or a sink for soaking.
This should remove all the rest of the dye. If not, then write me back or call me directly at 800.300.9975
Hope this helps!
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
Hi there, I love all of my hoodies. They are my favorite type of clothing, but I have a slight problem. I usually let them hang dry because if I don't, they shrink and the zipper doesn't and it looks really bad. I accidentally put one of my hoodies in the dryer - is there any way to reverse this? And also is there a way to keep colored clothed from fading, like with cotton and polyester mixes? Thanks!
- John
Answer: John, first of all, you can re-wet the hoodie—spin it—and then lay it on a towel. Then gently "stretch" or re-block the body to the right size, easing out the fabric in relation to the zipper. Allow it to air dry on the towel, adjusting the shape as it dries. That should help the "injured" hoodie.
As for the fading, you can use some Oxi-Clean in the next load to help "set" the dyes, washing on the coolest water possible. If the hoodie is black, you can use some Back-to-Black, or some other dark dye restoration product to re-darken. If it's red or some other color, then wash in cooler water and cutdown wash times and agitation to reduce fading. I hope this helps!
The Clothing Doctor
Hi, I have some mildew in my towels. I usually wash all my clothes together in cold water, because I do not own too many clothes that will fade. I want to get rid of the mildew in the towels, and I was wondering if I should wash them in cold or hot water? I do not have any pre-treatment or clorox at college. Do I need to use these? Thanks.
- Evan
Answer: Evan, is this mildew a one-time thing, or do you think it will continue to occur? First thing, mildew usually forms because the towels were left in a "wet" condition or in a wet area for too long. Mildew, depending on the severity, can be very hard to remove, and it's NEVER going to be removed with cold water. If the towels "just smell," then it will be easier than if the towels already contain green or purple dots.
You will have to rewash the towels as HOT as possible, for as long as possible, with a good amount of detergent. I would also include a 1/4 to 1/2 cup of chlorine bleach in the load. Be prepared to lose some color if the towels are colored. Then dry the towels completely.
If the odor or dots are still present after drying, then you will have to soak the towels in a stronger solution of bleach: But NEVER allow even a drop of bleach to come in contact with the towel itself: Chlorine bleach (Clorox) should always be diluted in water before touching the towels (or any other clothing). Write back if you need further advice!
Good luck, Steve — The Clothing Doctor
So I spilled beans from a burrito on a sweatshirt, and then I washed it after pre-treating the stain with stain remover I bought at the store. After taking it out of the dryer, the stain is still lightly there. Is there hope for the stain to still come out, if so how do I get it out, and if not then could I get it to fade? Also the sweatshirt is faded/worn black and the stain is a dark dark black.
- Tiffany Coleman
Answer: Tiffany, thanks for writing. First of all, remember the golden rule ... NEVER tumble dry anything with a stain or soil. If it doesn't come out in the wash, then you have helped to "set" the stain by drying it! Okay, since you stated that the stain is very dark (and maybe blotchy), I'm guessing that the part you are seeing is actually oil or grease from the Burrito. The "water-based" part of the stain washed out in the machine, and the oily part did not.
It may seem like overkill, for an old garment, but I would have it drycleaned. If the dark area remains after that, then it's either a set stain, or it will respond to mild bleaching. To try bleaching (after drycleaning), I would fill a bucket or sink with 4-5" of hot water and Oxiclean Versatile—or a color-safe bleach—and soak it for 30-60 minutes. Either drycleaning or soaking should get it out!
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
I purchased a pair of 7 for All Mankind jeans that fit great when I tried them on (they are 98% Cotton, 2% Spandex). The saleswoman told me not to wash the jeans on hot/warm or dry them, as heat will ruin the elastic. But they have stretched out a LOT and the only way I know how to shrink clothing is to put it in the dryer! How do I keep my jeans the same size as when I purchased them without "ruining the elastic?" I want to be careful since they were expensive. Thanks in advance!
- Maddie
Answer: Maddie, I know about these jeans! First of all, the 2% spandex is supposed to minimize bagging and stretching. My question: have you tried washing as instructed, to start? If not, I would wash the jeans, as instructed, and then try them on. By the way, the elastic should not be ruined by one wash in warm water and a casual, warm drying cycle. I would try all this first and then get back to me! Happy holidays :)
Best,
The Clothing Doctor
I sat in what I think is softened caramel candy while in my favorite jeans. I used a fork to gently pull the melted candy out of the jeans with limited success. I tried ice on the candy to harden it, no luck in getting it out. I'm afraid to use a blow dryer to warm it up but I'm afraid it will become more sticky. Any help? They're my favorite jeans, sadly. Thanks
- Lisa Tuders
Answer: Hi Lisa, you have a few options; you can try a small amount of "Goof Off" or Goo Gone" with a Q-Tip or toothbrush—just on the affected area. This should dissolve the sticky stuff. Then rewash; or you simply dryclean them, and that should remove the sticky matter!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
I recently washed a brand new maroon shirt that I had only worn once and when I took it out of the washer to hang it for drying I noticed that there were some lighter spots on it, they weren't white spots and I didn't use bleach but they look like a lighter maroon color. This also happens when I was my husbands green shirts and there will be yellow spots on them also! What am I doing wrong?
Answer: Kristina, thanks for writing. This is a somewhat common problem with cotton shirts, especially with maroon, green, and other deep or rich colors. You did not mention the fabric content, so I'm guessing they are cotton. The reason is not easily answered because of the variables. It sounds like you either spilled or splattered something onto the garments, or there is a presence of some acidic chemical present, either from a body-care product or in the washing formula. "Light" areas or spots of the same color usually result from this type of exposure (If the spots were from bleach they would be whiter).
Green shirts often form yellow spots, but it's usually because of exposure to a cologne, perfume, hairspray, or some other chemical or spill. You could try to neutralize the color loss by touching the discolored area with a Q-Tip of diluted ammonia, to reverse acidic reaction, if that's what occurred. This is all conjecture because we do not know the origin of the spot, and I can't see it!!
Good luck. Let me know if you need more help!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
I wash all my clothes in cold water. I dry them on the lowest setting. But still all my husband's t-shirts and button downs shrink! I don't have space to hang and air dry everything, so what do I do to further prevent all of his clothes from being too small? I use an LG front-loading washer and dryer which are less than 2 years old. Could there be a problem with my equipment?
- Mandi Lynne Barrett
Answer: Hi Mandi, unless the shirts are 100% cotton, and have not been stabilized, then they should not be shrinking from cold water and low heat. However, I need to know where they are shrinking; collar/neck, girth (around the body), sleeves ... or all? Are the shirts a poly blend or 100% cotton. Are other shirts shrinking, too?
Best, Steve — The Clothing Doctor
I have some white t-shirts with colors on them or graphic designs. I wanted to know: is it best to wash them with other colored clothing or white shirts?
- Marvin
Answer: Marvin, you should be able to wash them with other clothing, but I would test the colors first. Dip a clean cloth into soap and diluted ammonia, touch the wetted cloth to the brightest or deepest colors, and then allow the ammonia soaked cloth to sit on the printed design for 3-5 minutes. If there is no dye bleed or evidence of color on the test cloth, then gently rub the printed area. If there's still NO dye on the test cloth, then the T's should be safe to wash.
Best, Steve — The Clothing Doctor
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