Welcome to the Mac-Gray laundry forum! I am Steve Boorstein, The Clothing Doctor. I will be your clothing care expert. I spent 20 years in the high-end drycleaning business, but I've also written four books on laundry and hosted two DVDs on clothing care, so I know about dirty laundry! Write me about caring for everything made from fabric; washing, cleaning, stain removal and storage.
Before I begin answering questions, let's get a few facts straight:
Before you treat a stain, make sure you know if it's watery or oily!
Know a few first aid hints:
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Sorting Cycles Stains Odors Clothing Care |
Answer: Ketchup, like beer, wine, coffee, and sweat are all water-based and can be treated with water immediately, so at a minimum, be sure to rinse out the garment in cool water if you can’t wash it for a few days. This stain, depending on the color of the fabric, can usually be removed with pretreatment followed by washing.
Answer: Gabrielle, wax CAN be one of the easiest stains to remove, but it requires either dry cleaning — which removes it in minutes — or a number of processes at home. The one concern is the color of the wax. White or clear wax is the easiest. Gabrielle, you did not mention if the skirt is washable or requires dry cleaning, but if you care about the skirt and are willing to invest in dry cleaning, it is the least painless approach, and it takes the responsibility off of you. If you want to try it yourself, you have a few choices:
You can put the skirt in a large ziplock bag and "freeze" the wax, and then carefully crack and chip it off, using a dull butter knife or spoon.
Then scrape off all the wax you can and place a piece of paper bag above and below the wax. Then use a hot iron on the paper bag, above the wax stain. In many cases, the wax will melt and be absorbed onto the paper bag.
If it's colored wax, or if there is a wax residue, then use "Goof Off" (sparingly) or some other "solvent-type solution to "melt" or dissolve the wax remnant. Then wash as usual (unless it requires dry cleaning)!
Thanks,
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hello Caroline, Thanks for writing. I'm sorry to hear about your travails with "loose" dye! Yes, dyes can "migrate" or bleed from deep colors to lighter colors from perspiration, so it's best to wash new, striped, printed, or bright-colored clothing before wearing. However, dyes can migrate from dry fabrics, as well, from rubbing against other clothing. Fortunately for you, the affected shirt is pure white (versus printed or pale yellow). You have a couple of options for restoration that should remove ALL the colored dye from the white shirt. Here are the options and steps:
Answer: Dear Jake,
Thanks for writing. I am answering immediately so you won't be cold tonight :)
Ah, college life, how I miss it! I assume you do not have a duvet cover on the comforter, but I would recommend that you get one asap, so the next time you vomit you will only have to clean the cover!
Okay, you have a few choices. First, your girlfriend's Mom is not that far off if it's a small stain, but it would probably still stink. Down is usually washable, but you will need a front-load washer because of the size and weight of the comforter. You may have one on campus, or at a laundromat nearby.
First and foremost, you MUST carefully inspect every seam to make sure there are NO holes or tears, otherwise you will lose most of the down feathers during cleaning.
Answer: Hello Adrienne,
I wish I could tell you this was an easy fix, but without knowing the type of paint (Oil or Latex), the size of the stain (a "swipe," dime size, or larger), and the colors of the vest and the paint, it's hard to advise!
I will say the following and hope one of them will help! First off, read the care label to see if the vest requires washing, drycleaning, or allows both. Second, if the vest means a lot to you, and you want the "easy" way out, take it to the best drycleaner in town and talk directly to the manager or owner to get a prognosis.
Assuming you want to try removal on your own, and the stain is smaller than a dime, and its latex paint:
Test a very small area of the stain with a Q-Tip and soapy water. Blot the stain until it softens. Allow the Q-Tip to remain on the stain for a full minute. (If it doesn't soften or bleed at all, then the paint is probably Oil and you should take the vest to the cleaners. Seriously!)
If the paint does start to bleed, then it's latex (not oil). If it seems to be working, then re-dip the Q-Tip in soapy water, and repeat the process until the paint completely stops bleeding.
Once it's stopped, try Spray and Wash or some other soapy stain remover, then blot with a dry white cloth until it's mostly dry.
You are taking a chance by washing it — as the stain may not come out — so AIR DRY the vest and then re-inspect it once it's dry. If it's better, but not completely out, then repeat the whole process.
I hope this helped. If not, or you are too concerned about trying it in the first place, entrust it to the drycleaner or call me directly at 303.443.3232
Good luck,
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Ciel, thanks for writing. Perspiration stains are the number one garment killer, especially in warmer months. The purple "color change" under the arms is very common. I would pre-treat the underarms with a water/detergent mix ASAP.
Answer: Hi Will,
The best part is that you identified the stain as oil/vinegar. If you remember science class, you will recall that oil and water do NOT mix! We are under the misconception that Shout and other commercial stain removers (that work well on water-based stains) will also remove oily stains. In most cases this is not accurate!
The good news is that you washed it cold and did NOT tumble dry it! Your only option is to have the shirt drycleaned. I know it seems like overkill to pay to have a T-shirt drycleaned, but it is your only hope. The cold water wash may compromise complete removal, but there's a very good chance that it will work. You can ask them not to "press" it, which may save you a few bucks!
Good luck,
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Nate, very sorry to hear this. Dye transfer and dye bleeding are both difficult to restore, especially with colored items. First, drying the garments does not help your cause, as you already know. And yellow dye can be stubborn, but at least it's not green or blue! You have a few choices:
Answer: Fred, I am sorry to hear that! I hope it didn't bleed onto anything else. There are a few possibilities, but none are guaranteed. If this shirt is important to you, you may want to consult a GOOD drycleaner:
First, rewash in warm water (to loosen dyes)
You could try a RIT Dye to "separate or strip" out the blue dye. This is tricky and may take some experimentation.
You could check with the store where it was purchased, as warm water should not have bled the dyes, unless the dyes were unstable in the beginning.
I hope this helps! - Steve - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Candice, sorry to hear about your dye woes! It's good that the tainted shirts are white, because white is the easiest color to restore. I would do the following:
Answer: Tiffany, thanks for writing. First of all, remember the golden rule ... NEVER tumble dry anything with a stain or soil. If it doesn't come out in the wash, then you have helped to "set" the stain by drying it! Okay, since you stated that the stain is very dark (and maybe blotchy), I'm guessing that the part you are seeing is actually oil or grease from the Burrito. The "water-based" part of the stain washed out in the machine, and the oily part did not.
It may seem like overkill, for an old garment, but I would have it drycleaned. If the dark area remains after that, then it's either a set stain, or it will respond to mild bleaching. To try bleaching (after drycleaning), I would fill a bucket or sink with 4-5" of hot water and Oxiclean Versatile—or a color-safe bleach—and soak it for 30-60 minutes. Either drycleaning or soaking should get it out!
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Lisa, you have a few options; you can try a small amount of "Goof Off" or Goo Gone" with a Q-Tip or toothbrush—just on the affected area. This should dissolve the sticky stuff. Then rewash; or you simply dryclean them, and that should remove the sticky matter!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: No, you usually get what you pay for. But unless the clothing is very soiled (use Tide) or very delicate (use The Laundress), most “average” detergents will do the job.
Answer: Hi Amelia,
Yes, the woolen cycle uses cold water and will work as an alternative to the gentle cycle. However, if you have ground-in stains or specific soil, then consider pre-treating the area before washing.
Best,
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Thank you for your question. It is true that cold water cycles are much more environmentally-friendly than traditional hot water or warm water cycles. This is because most of the energy exerted by your washer (70 – 90% depending on washer type) is dedicated to heating the water. Cold water cycles effectively clean normally soiled clothing when used properly. Laundry detergent disperses more slowly in cold water, so it’s best to avoid powder detergent, and if possible select detergent specially formulated for cold water washing. In some cases, cold water cycles can be even more effective at cleaning clothes than hot water cycles since certain stains are actually lifted more easily when treated with cold water. For example, cold water assists in removing protein stains like blood or egg, but hot water is likely to set this stain in the clothing. If you have any stains, especially oil-based stains, it is always best to pre-treat it before washing it in cold water just to be safe. Remember that many organic oil stains (food oils) are more difficult to remove than machine oils, and may require dry cleaning or very hot wash water.
Finally, you bring up the important point of water temperature. Water temperatures below 60 degrees Fahrenheit are not as effective at cleaning clothing. Generally-accepted cold water guidelines vary, but as long as you take the appropriate steps for your cold water wash, your clothing should be effectively cleaned at 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Be aware that wash temperatures vary with the seasons (water temperatures can hit the 30s in winter), so you may need to consider using a warm cycle if you live in a very cold climate. In warmer parts of the country, this isn’t typically an issue.
Answer: The short answer is yes. It is always best to sort and classify — even with the challenge of doing laundry at college — and here’s why:
Answer: Hi Roland, thanks for writing. As funny as it may seem, I can't give you a simple answer because of the variables:
If the blue jeans have been washed before
How deep the blue is in the jeans — or how faded they are
How much synthetic there is in the fabric (or blend)
The temperature of the wash water ...
With that being said, I would wash the jeans alone, or with a white towel, to see how much the color bleeds onto the white towel or rag. If there's dye on the white item, then you have your answer. Removing blue dye from Cargo pants, without ruining them is very complicated and risky. If the blue jeans don't bleed onto the towel then you're probably okay, especially if you use cold water. Feel free to write back with any questions.
I hope this helps!
Steve Boorstein, The Clothing Doctor
Answer: I assume you are referring to “pill balls.” Pills often form because of friction; rubbing against a layer of clothing or a piece of furniture, or from rubbing against itself and other garments in the washing machine and dryer. Pills can also form because of the type and length of the yarn, and how “tightly" it is wound. Acrylic, cashmere and merino sweaters are the most susceptible to pill balls!
To minimize pilling, use mesh wash nets when washing and drying. This will keep the sweater from touching other garments during agitation. Quality also has a lot to do with pilling. Pill balls can often be improved or removed with a battery-operated depiller or a single-edge disposable razor. Depill slowly and check your work regularly, so you don’t thin the sweater too much! Look to the light to see how you are doing.
Steve, The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Thanks for your question Dan.
It’s hard to tell if your laundry load is too large without seeing it, but from your description it sounds like that may be the case. Remember to pile clothes into the washer loosely, rather than stuffing them in. The clothes need a little room to move in order to be cleaned and then spun out effectively. Same thing goes for the dryer, clothes need room to billow to be dried completely.
Don’t use more detergent, that won’t help. In fact, too much detergent doesn’t clean better. It leaves residue on your clothing and can cause over-sudsing which could make the machine malfunction during the cycle. Also, you should remove your clothes from the washer promptly when the cycle is complete to minimize odor. After removing your clothing, it's also helpful to leave the washer door open to let it air out after each load.
And finally, be sure to clean the dryer lint filter before you dry your clothes. This helps maximize air flow which improves the efficiency of the dryer to get the job done in one cycle.
Hope this helps!
Answer: Hi Chelsea,
Sorry to hear about your troubles. You can re-wet the blouse and then air dry it (versus tumbling). You should lay it flat and then manually "flatten" the crochet bits, as they dry. This may restore some of the body and texture. You may even try an iron, if the care tag allows it (or even of or doesn't).
If that doesn't work, then the blouse should be returned to the retailer. This may not be possible, but clothing makers and retailers need to know if a garment is defective, or if it cannot withstand the care instructions. Returning the garment may be the only way the retailer will know that the blouse does not adhere to the labeling laws. This care label is actually in violation of the FTC labeling law, so feel good about keeping the manufacturer honest!
Good luck. Write back if you need further guidance on this matter!
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Chelsea,
Thanks for writing. I agree with your assessment — and how hard it is to do "special" treatments on campus. (I live in Boulder, five blocks from the CU campus.) You didn't mention the fabric content, but most clothing that can or "should" be hand washed can also be machine washed on a delicate cycle. If the shirts look like they can withstand machine washing, then they probably can. It's hard to say for sure without seeing them — as there are often exceptions — but this is rarely the case with career shirts! I will list a few concerns and you can take it from there:
"Hot" colors such as red, deep green, blue, black and purple can bleed onto other garments the first time they are washed, so either hand wash separately, or machine wash alone.
Garments with stones, beads, and other ornamentation, may need hand washing, but can often be turned inside out and safely machine washed. (You can also buy a few mesh wash nets to help protect ornaments, available at www.clothingdoctor.com) Nets work well for loose socks, bras, and other small items.
Shirts like this may have a hand wash tag to avoid very hot water or to eliminate tumble drying —especially if they contain lycra/spandex or some other stretch material that weakens in high heat. Tumbling may cause shrinkage or fading, so check the tag for drying instructions and then consider tumble drying on low heat.
Lastly, if none of this makes sense, then call the manufacturer and ask the tech department. This process is actually easier to do than you'd think, but it might take 15 minutes to get the right phone number!
Good luck, and write back or call if you need additional help.
Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Jeff,
I will assume the shirts are made of cotton, as they typically get the most wrinkles. I assume you do not have a small travel iron for your dorm or don't want to buy one? I know ironing can be a pain and you do not have an ironing board. I can offer a few solutions to try, without the use of an iron, but without more information it's hard to be exact.
You can try smoothing the collars with your hand after washing, and before drying: Allowing the collars to dry in the "smoothed" condition. You may even want to try hanging the shirt and and air drying, as an experiment.
You could try re-wetting the collar after washing and drying, and then smoothing the collar by hand.
You could also purchase a travel steamer, small but efficient. it may not work on all wrinkles as well as an iron, but it's quicker. Visit http://www.clothingdoctor.com/tiny/12
Lastly,you may want to ask a fellow female student to help you, as they may have more experience with this dilemma than you!
Best of luck,
Steve Boorstein — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Amalia, I am very sorry to hear that you have problems with bed bugs. Fact is, bed bugs are becoming the number one nuisance and epidemic. The bugs can be killed by exposure to extreme heat or extreme cold — like the cold in the freezer. I've had some experience with this, so I know it's very hard to beat them on your own, without professional help. I think it's best to share these steps so everyone can benefit:
Answer: Hi Kathryn, this is a tricky thing to answer without seeing the garment, but I will give you the basics: Oily stains usually don't come out in the washer (especially food oils vs. bike grease), so they show up as BLOTCHY marks (they could need drycleaning) ; Never tumble ANY clothing that has stains. Air dry/drip dry all stained clothing, so you can inspect it. If the stain did come out, then just re-wet or rewash, but at least you will have fewer stains that become set by tumble drying. If you need more information on this, visit www.clothingdoctor.com
Good luck, The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Francis, thanks for writing. Discolorations can be difficult to identify because there are so many variables, from personal hygiene habits to weird machine-based stains. A few examples that may have contributed to your discolorations: Body oils, perspiration, hair care products, acne medicine, and some colognes can cause discolorations. You want to wash these shirts as hot as possible, with a quality detergent. If you still can't figure it out, go to www.clothingdoctor.com and email us a digital picture of the discoloration.
I hope this helps: The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Mellissa,
Thanks for writing. Discolored underarms are the number one problem we face, and it's the most asked question. I am not sure that the greying is a result of failing to classify colors when washing. Perspiration starts out clear, but once the sweaty garment is "left alone" at he bottom of the closet or in a basket for a few days or a week, the clear stain oxidizes and can take on color ... yellow or sometimes grey. I don't have a quick fix for you, but I do have some preventive advice for your other clothing — and maybe a solution for this particular shirt.
Preventive Care
Answer: Dwain,
Thanks for writing. Soapnuts are a natural fabric softener and a natural odor remover. They help to reduce odor in diapers and other personal items. I also know that cold water does not remove soil as well as hot water (or as well as Tide for Cold Water). Given that you are trying to be as Green as possible with your ingredients and water temperature, I would try the following:
Answer: Hi Joanne, thanks for writing! This is a loaded question, but it really depends on the fabric, the type of dyes — your comfort zone — and whether you are talking about "black and navy" as dark items. I assume you want dry dark and white together to save time? In most cases, a dark pair of blue jeans can be dried with lighter colors, but if the jeans are Indigo dyed — like many of the 7 for All Mankind — you may still have some dye bleeding or "rubbing" occurring during the drying cycle. I dry "darks and lights" together all the time, but rarely WHITE and dark. However, if you still want to do this, then rub a white cloth against the dark items before putting in the dryer. If dark dye comes off on the white towel, then it may be risky. By the way. we now sell a a product called Dye-Lock that "seals" dyes in the washer, so reds don't bleed onto white, etc. You can get this on www.clothingdoctor.com if you are interested.
Good luck!
Steve Boorstein - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Lujik, Sorry for the late response, but, yes, you should take it to the drycleaner, and I would not try anything at home unless it's a very small spot. But anything YOU do will probably reduce your cleaner's chance of removal.
Best - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Tracy, it's hard to know the real cause without seeing the garments, but i'm going to guess that it's a case of "fume fading." Vapors actually lift the dyes from one garment to the other, if they are in close proximity. Of course, it may be a totally different issue, but it does sound like dye, nonetheless. Removing black dye from yellow is very hard. However, the fact that it's poly fabric may make it easier. Still, I believe you will have to consult the BEST drycleaner in your area to try and resolve. Feel free to send me a digital photo if you'd like some personal feedback.
Good Luck - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Cori, first of all, make sure that you rinse the underarms with a soapy solution as soon as you take the top off. I would use an old toothbrush to lightly "scrub" the area, and then wash, as instructed, ASAP. I would then wash in the best detergent and the hottest water the care label allows. And then AIR DRY to make sure the stains come out before drying, if you dry at all. If the stains do not come out, write steve@clothingdoctor.com directly and I'll help you!
Good luck - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Cristin, you have probably done irreversible damage, as linen (and orange) can lose color and surface fibers very quickly, especially if you were scrubbing a colored stain or an oily stain. I would take it to a drycleaner that knows how to use "dye pads, colored pencils, and mineral oil." The technician should be able to discern the condition, and possibly restore some of the color. But, it may be a lost cause. In the future, you should never RUB a fabric in hope of removing a stain. "Mechanical Action," as we call it, almost always "pulls" color. Good luck!
The Clothing Doctor - Steve Boorstein
Answer: Hi Laura,
Thank you so much for your question!
To start, you are correct that most clothing would benefit from being washed in a cold water cycle. Not only does cold water clean just as effectively as warmer water - it preserves colors and fabrics as well. And, it's green! Since up to 70% of the energy exerted by the washer is used to heat the water, choosing cold water cycles saves energy and our planet!
To answer your question: the cycle options on different washing machines vary slightly - but the cycle settings on our newest High-Efficiency Front-Load Maytag machines are as follows:
Whites - Hot - Medium Speed
Colors - Warm - Medium Speed
Bright Colors - Cold - Fast Speed
Delicates & Knits - Warm - Slow Speed
Perm. Press - Warm - Medium Speed
Quick Wash - Warm - Medium Speed
Depending on the type of clothing and the amount of colors, you should choose between the Bright Colors and Delicates & Knits cycle. And remember: extremely soiled clothing may need a hotter cycle to clean completely.
Answer: Hi Lisa,
Thank you for your question!
A warm water wash is typically 85-105 degrees Fahrenheit. (30-40 Celsius)
A hot water wash is typically 120 degrees Fahrenheit. (Approximately 50 Celsius)
A cold water wash is typically 65-75 degrees Fahrenheit. (20-25 Celsius)
In winter months, in regions where it tends to get colder, these temperatures may drop slightly, so please keep that in mind when choosing your wash cycles.
Answer: John, first of all, you can re-wet the hoodie—spin it—and then lay it on a towel. Then gently "stretch" or re-block the body to the right size, easing out the fabric in relation to the zipper. Allow it to air dry on the towel, adjusting the shape as it dries. That should help the "injured" hoodie.
As for the fading, you can use some Oxi-Clean in the next load to help "set" the dyes, washing on the coolest water possible. If the hoodie is black, you can use some Back-to-Black, or some other dark dye restoration product to re-darken. If it's red or some other color, then wash in cooler water and cutdown wash times and agitation to reduce fading. I hope this helps!
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Joyce, I would inspect the dress in bright light. If it seems pretty trashed, then I'd show it to your drycleaner. However, it will probably need washing—which they can do. If it is simply designed (no flowers, stones, etc,) you may be able to wash it and AIR DRY it yourself! I hope that helps!
Steve Boorstein - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: June, this is a very hard problem to solve without first seeing the yellow stains. You could take a photo and email it to us at clothing doctor. My first thought was rust, but that doesn't come out with bleach. My second thought was oily stains, but they do not come out with bleach, either. And you inspect these before washing, so you know that they were not there before washing? I wish I could do more for you, but at least the stains come out with bleach—which I hope you first dilute!!
Steve Boorstein - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Alexis...Perspiration can upset and loosen dyes, like the pink you mentioned. I would pre-treat the rings with Spray n' Wash, or some other product and then rewash. I'd AIR DRY the white shirt so as not to set the stains. If they get better, but don't come out completely, I'd soak the shirt in a OxiClean Versatile or some type of color-safe bleach. It can soak in the sink for an hour, if needed. As for the print undershirt, I'd rewash, as hot as allowed and then soak in OXI. Let us know if you still have issues!
Steve Boorstein - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Berni, I'd like to give you a quick answer, but I have questions! But here goes ... I don't know if this is a zipper, all alone, or if it's part of a garment and sewn into it. Either way, it should not have bled. It's possible that rewashing, or dye stripping would help, but it's really something that should be taken back to the fabric store or retailer. The zipper could be removed and stripped of the blue dye, but that can also be very expensive. Write back or call us directly if you need further assistance.
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Maddie, I know about these jeans! First of all, the 2% spandex is supposed to minimize bagging and stretching. My question: have you tried washing as instructed, to start? If not, I would wash the jeans, as instructed, and then try them on. By the way, the elastic should not be ruined by one wash in warm water and a casual, warm drying cycle. I would try all this first and then get back to me! Happy holidays :)
Best,
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Kristina, thanks for writing. This is a somewhat common problem with cotton shirts, especially with maroon, green, and other deep or rich colors. You did not mention the fabric content, so I'm guessing they are cotton. The reason is not easily answered because of the variables. It sounds like you either spilled or splattered something onto the garments, or there is a presence of some acidic chemical present, either from a body-care product or in the washing formula. "Light" areas or spots of the same color usually result from this type of exposure (If the spots were from bleach they would be whiter).
Green shirts often form yellow spots, but it's usually because of exposure to a cologne, perfume, hairspray, or some other chemical or spill. You could try to neutralize the color loss by touching the discolored area with a Q-Tip of diluted ammonia, to reverse acidic reaction, if that's what occurred. This is all conjecture because we do not know the origin of the spot, and I can't see it!!
Good luck. Let me know if you need more help!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Earwax can cause some yellowish stains. Wax is easily removed in drycleaning, but not so easy in the the wash unless the water temp is 140 degrees or so. I would try one piece in drycleaning to see if that removes it. If not, then it's probably not wax. Ask the cleaner to clean only, do NOT press, as it will save you money!
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Jasmine, first of all, drycleaning is the first choice with ALL oily stains, other than car grease. If you haven't set the stain, removed it, or "pulled the color," then dryclean and the Vasoline should come right out!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Mandi, unless the shirts are 100% cotton, and have not been stabilized, then they should not be shrinking from cold water and low heat. However, I need to know where they are shrinking; collar/neck, girth (around the body), sleeves ... or all? Are the shirts a poly blend or 100% cotton. Are other shirts shrinking, too?
Best, Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Evan, is this mildew a one-time thing, or do you think it will continue to occur? First thing, mildew usually forms because the towels were left in a "wet" condition or in a wet area for too long. Mildew, depending on the severity, can be very hard to remove, and it's NEVER going to be removed with cold water. If the towels "just smell," then it will be easier than if the towels already contain green or purple dots.
You will have to rewash the towels as HOT as possible, for as long as possible, with a good amount of detergent. I would also include a 1/4 to 1/2 cup of chlorine bleach in the load. Be prepared to lose some color if the towels are colored. Then dry the towels completely.
If the odor or dots are still present after drying, then you will have to soak the towels in a stronger solution of bleach: But NEVER allow even a drop of bleach to come in contact with the towel itself: Chlorine bleach (Clorox) should always be diluted in water before touching the towels (or any other clothing). Write back if you need further advice!
Good luck, Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Rishi, sorry to hear that! I've known for years about the yellow dye from charge receipts, but it's usually only a problem with laundered shirts (not dry cleaned). I'm guessing that they washed it. I would check on that for the future. I think your only option is to contact a high-quality cleaner and to speak with the owner or manager. They may have the skills to "strip" out the yellow dye, without ruining the gray—but it's tricky and may not work. Do you know such a cleaner? If not, contact me directly, off the Clothesline and I will help you personally.
Best, Steve
Answer: Bill, some salad dressing comes out in the washer, but most are of an oily nature and require drycleaning first. I don't know the fabric of the pants, the size of the stain or if you already tried washing them. But, if they are valuable, then I'd confer with a drycleaner, before washing them.
Best, Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Sarah, that's a good question, and hard to answer without seeing it first. Just wondering if you washed it cold? You could try re-washing, if you haven't already, but it could take some intense "spot" removal, on just the white letters. If you want to send me a phone pic of the letters I may be able to give you better advice. Info@clothingdoctor.com
Best - Steve
Answer: Marvin, you should be able to wash them with other clothing, but I would test the colors first. Dip a clean cloth into soap and diluted ammonia, touch the wetted cloth to the brightest or deepest colors, and then allow the ammonia soaked cloth to sit on the printed design for 3-5 minutes. If there is no dye bleed or evidence of color on the test cloth, then gently rub the printed area. If there's still NO dye on the test cloth, then the T's should be safe to wash.
Best, Steve — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Moe, mayo can come out in the wash with pre-treatment, though cotton is very absorbent. Mayo is also oily, which doesn't come out in the wash easily. If you have already washed and dried (as you mentioned trying "everything"), then I would go to a cheap drycleaners and point out the stain. Ask them to dryclean, NOT wash, and it may come out even at this late date!
Good Luck - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: September, I would try re-washing and air drying one more time. Then I would try some 3% Peroxide, which you can get from a drug store or grocery. A few drops will cause the blood to foam. If that doesn't do it, then I would try a Q-tip of Ammonia with some detergent. If that doesn't work then I would try the Peroxide and the Ammonia together, which forms a mild bleach. It could lighten the gray color or even fade the color, but it's a common remedy for blood!
Best - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Betsy, this is a tough one, and I'm sorry that you've had this problem. You can either try re-washing and air drying yourself, or you could take it to the BEST drycleaner in your area. They might be able to use a dye stripper to remove the pink stains, but it could lighten the pink or ruin it completely. Call me directly if you would like more information. 800.300.9975
Good Luck —The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Tracy, I am guessing that the garments have already been washed or drycleaned, and the deo stains still remain? I'm assuming that the garment is dark in color, so the whitish residue shows? If the garment is washable, then the stains should come out in the wash cycle, especially if you pre-treat them with a soft toothbrush and detergent before you wash. If it's a dryclean only fabric, and possibly dark, and possibly acetate or some synthetic fiber, then you could try a "deo brush" that removes surface stains. Visit this link to see a sample:http://www.clothingdoctor.com/tiny/1s
I Hope this helps!
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Raymond, while you might think it advantageous to remove some of the mess on your own, other than a gentle wipe down with a damp sponge (if it's a "hard" wool"), it's best to leave it to the drycleaner. You may encounter a special spot-removal fee. Good luck!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Ann, it's mostly a washable situation, but it shouldn't be dried because the heat may set the stains, making them harder to remove. There is a slight chance that some of the stain is oily, which typically doesn't come out in the wash. If the sweatshirt means a lot to you, you may want to have it drycleaned to remove the oil, and then washed (and maybe bleached, as mentioned below) to remove the food coloring. You did not mention the color of the sweatshirt, but unless it's very dark, you will probably have stains that remain after washing. If so, you will probably want to soak it in the hottest water possible, along with some color safe bleach, such as Clorox for Colors, or some such product. You can soak it for up to an hour.
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Ann, I have seen this too many times to count. It's the perspiration that bled the dye from the jacket lining. I would take the blouse to the BEST drycleaner in town. They will "spot-treat" the underarm of the blouse, and maybe remove the "transfer" dye in the process, without the need for dye strippers. You may want them to spot-treat the navy lining of the jacket so it will be less likely to bleed again, under the sam sweaty conditions!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Ana, thanks for writing. If you haven't dyed clothing before, you are in for an experience! You will find that each fabric reacts to the dye differently. The dyes could also bleed differently. I suggest the following: dye the fabric as hot as possible; rinse each piece after dying; and wash each piece a few times before wearing. This process should tell you if the dyes will bleed onto other clothing. TO TEST: After dying/washing/drying, use a white towel to rub the dyed area. This will tell you if the dyes appear to be "fast."
Good luck, The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Sydney, do you own a wooden or metal drying rack? I know you have very little room, but many of the drying racks break down and fold up. You could set it up to dry your clothing and break it down to store in a closet or under your bed. Or, you could get a cascading hanger with metal clips that houses 8-10 skirts or pants. You might be able to find these hangers for blouses, as well.
Go on the net to see what you can find: The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Cheryl, I first have to ask if it has a wash label, as some dyes—depending on the fabric content—can bleed in washing. It's possible to remove the blotched areas, but it may require removing the trim that bled, stripping the dye, and then resewing the darker trim. I would call The Clothing Doctor at 800.300.9975 for more info!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Jill, just like Cheryl, I first have to ask if it has a wash label, as some dyes—depending on the fabric content—can bleed in washing. It's possible to remove the blotched areas, but it may require removing the trim that bled, stripping the dye, and then resewing the darker trim. I would call The Clothing Doctor at 800.300.9975 for more info!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Traci, is the lettering white? Is it that soft, thick texture (opposed to absorbent cotton? It may require some spot bleaching or spot dye stripping.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Amber, there are battery-opertaed pill removers that work about as well as razor blades, and are often safer (sample on Amazon -http://www.clothingdoctor.com/tiny/1n). However, it takes a subtle touch with either approach. You would drape the fabric over the palm of your hand and then gently run the blade or the shaver over the fabric, applying just enough pressure to shave off the pills, and nothing more. Start slowly and then look at the results. Blades tend to "grab" the fabric and cause snags more than the shaver. I hope this helps! You could also consult a great drycleaner in your area, if that's easier.
The Clothing Doctor - Steve Boorstein
Answer: Skyller, I'm familiar with the comforters, but it's hard to know the problem without seeing it or getting more information. I'm betting that you did nothing wrong by washing and drying it, except to inspect the comforter for stains BEFORE drying! You can call us, or send a photo, but it seems like something either stained the area—causing it to turn yellow and hard—or something got stuck to it. The stiff area might be treatable. Short of calling or sending a photo, I'd visit the best drycleaner in town for advice.
Answer: Jessica, this is a tough one, but unless the care label says Do Not Tumble, then the heat shouldn't be the issue. Personally, I would wash the shirt, rather than use a scented fabric softener. As for the green discoloration, I would wash it as hot as it allows, if it hasn't been washed already. If you still can't figure it out, go to www.clothingdoctor.com and email us a digital picture of the discoloration.
Answer: Abigail, I will be somewhat surprised if the oil comes out in the wash, but I would pretreat and then wash as hot as the label allows. Good for you for remembering to air dry ALL stained items. If it doesn't come out, or looks blotchy after air drying, then I'd take them to the drycleaners!
Good luck, The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Rebecca, I don't think the detergent had anything to do with the black marks, but of course I'm not there to look at the jumpers. You may have a bad hose (that's spewing debris in the washer) or something going on with your machine. Detergent doesn't usually cause stains. If you had rust in your water or fabric softeners, perhaps—but those stains aren't usually black. I would start with experimentation and elimination; wash other items or towels under the same circumstances and see if they get marks. Let me know if I can suggest anything else to you!
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: I am very sorry to hear that! This kind of dye bleed can be remedied, but it takes a very astute drycleaner. I don't think you can do anything yourself, as the dress says dryclean only—and you've seen what water did to the dye!
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Kathy, did you ask the drycleaner to re-treat the wine stain? I'd try that first. Wine can usually come out of polyester. What color is the gown, and does it contain stones, beads or other ornamental embellishments?
Let me know—
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Joe, I don't know the fabric content, but you could soak it in color-safe bleach for an hour or so. That may lighten the soda and break down the aged sugar from the soda. If it improves, repeat the process.
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Laura, are these shirts white, and could the pink be either yellowish or from makeup? Discoloration on collars usually comes from make-up, perspiration or perfume (discolors with heat and pressing). I would need to know more to really help you, but I would rewash the shirts as hot as possible, and then soak in color-safe bleach, if still stained.
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Emily, if you want to be very sure to minimize shrinkage then air dry. If you feel comfortable following the "Tumble Dry Low," then do that. If it shrinks then you should be able to return the shirt. However, fabric is always softer when tumbled, even for the first 5 minutes (and then air dry the rest)!
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Allie, sorry to hear about your troubles. Maroon is one of the most inconsistent dyes, as you've learned. Glad you were able to remove the loose dye from the other pieces. The white & pink, and the tan will be trickier. You could try using a RIT Dye Stripper, but it may pull the color form the garments—and not just the pink/maroon dye. If that seems too challenging, I would show it to the BEST drycleaner in town (the owner or spotter) to see what they have to say. Wish I could offer more advice!
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Shannon, warm warm water may contribute to shrinkage, but hi-speed extraction usually "beats up" clothing over time. I would go with the gentle spin and warm. If there's something more delicate then spin and then air dry the rest of the way if you can. You can also buy some mesh wash nets at www.clothingdoctor.com to reduce the wear on clothing.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Stephanie, you would probably have to re-wash the jacket in the hottest water allowed by the care label, and then AIR DRY it, so as not to set the dye anymore. However, if you followed the care instructions for the black jacket and it failed in washing, then you might have a case to return it to the retailer (and manufacturer). If none of this works, then I would take the 2 jackets to the BEST drycleaner in town for their opinion.
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Alexis, you made the right decision NOT to proceed. Since it means so much to you, I would take it directly to the best dry cleaner in your area to let them assess the spot. Hopefully your "gentle" rubbing did not cause any fiber damage or color loss. A good cleaner will have a myriad of tests they can run to determine the nature of the stain.
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: John, I would have told you from the start to have the jacket drycleaned (if it has a dryclean label), as drycleaning solution easily removes most oils, including motor oil. At this point—given that the wash and OXI could have "set" the stain, I would tell the drycleaner what you did, in detail, and then allow them to "run" the jacket to see if they can remove more of the stain.
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Mary, I can take a stab at this, but really need to speak with you to actually help! I need to know if the lettering is "puffy" and somewhat soft, or simply silk screened onto the shirt; is the lettering on the sleeves the exact same as the the lettering on the front? My number is 303.443.3232
Answer: Nancy, perspiration is normal, but it can be reduced by using a good deodorant/antiperspirant—and washing right after wearing. Do not let sit before washing, and do NOT allow your sone to wear the merinos more than once between washing. I would treat the underarms with a soapy solution as soon as he takes them off and then wash asap.
I hope that helps—The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Silvana, sorry to hear of your problems, but I have to wonder what made you buy a garment with such a care instruction? We saw a number of pieces like this when I was in the drycleaning business, but we typically spot cleaned them, as instructed. I believe you need to seek out the BEST drycleaner you can find. Talk to the owner and see what they can do for you. Call me if you like: 303.443.3232
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Gloria, Are you saying that your blouse was drycleaned with a red dress and it bled onto your blouse? If so, then it seems to me that it would be the drycleaner's responsibility to restore it or replace it. The sleeves, or the part that turned pink—which to me is not clear by your description—may be restorable or "stripable," but again, it seems like it would be their responsibility because they washed it with a red item. Call if you want to talk further. 303.443.3232.
I wish you luck!
The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Donna, washable fabrics are usually responsive to dye-strippers, which is what will probably be needed to help remedy your situation. However, it is a very tricky process if you don't want to remove the original dye, as well. And it may not work anyway. I suggest that you take the shirt to the best drycleaner in town and speak with with the owner. I restored hundreds of pieces during my 20 years in the drycleaning business, but this may be difficult-to-impossible because of the colors.
I would re-wash the damaged item—and not dry it—and then re-inspect it If it's better, then wash it again. If it's not, then take it to the cleaners. But you have to speak to a technician. Feel free to contact me directly if you need more advice.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Carolina, it's an honest mistake! There are chemicals that reverse the effects of bleach, but they usually don't work on dark and thick, absorbable cotton. You could try a drop of white vinegar (an acid that is at the opposite end of the Ph scale) to reverse the color loss, but it's a long shot. Leave the vinegar on a TEST area of white for 5 minutes. If it starts bringing back the color on one small splash, then add another drop to the same spot. If it's NO help, then rewash and allow to dry. I know this sounds unprofessional, and far from scientific, but I would then go to an art supply store to test different shades of dark blue markers to see if one would help to "cover" or disguise the white spots. It may not come out blue on the sweaty, but it may make the spots less visible. I hope this helps!
Answer: Esther, this is usually a one-way condition, and cannot be improved. Fading removes color from the fabric, and cannot usually be reversed. If it's very light, your drycleaner may be able to add some mineral oil to darken the area, but it will "wash out" each time it's cleaned. Sorry, wish I had better news. We sell protective, breathable bags on clothingdoctor.com, for future garments.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Michael, I understand your frustration ... Bottom line, you should take it back to the cleaners, but this time you should speak to a manager or an owner, only. They obviously missed the 2x2 spot, which is lame, but forgivable if they remedy the situation. Using Goo Gone, or some such product, would probably breakdown the stain and remove it, but you would have to then have the pants recleaned anyway. Last ditch, if none of that works is to have the tainted part of the lining replaced.
Best of Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Jayne, without seeing it, it sounds to me like a greasy smudge from the cleaners ... maybe picked up by a machine and went unnoticed during final inspection—if they did an inspection at all! If it is grease, then I would take it back to the cleaners and point it out. Washing will NOT help.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Michelle, it could be the result of a color change between the bleach and the food/spill stain. Did you dilute the bleach, or use it full strength? If it's a chemical color change from putting a strong alkaline (bleach), then it may get better with a touch of white household vinegar (an acid), to reverse the alkaline color change. Call us at 800.300.9975 for more free info!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Shana, it's a tough restoration, but you should know that drying the garments was a bad idea. Can you send me a digital picture from your phone? info@clothingdoctor.com I know you'd like a quick and easy answer, but there isn't one. Sorry. Or you could call and talk with us about it. 800.300.9975
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hollee, first of all, while the hoodie probably has a wash instruction, it generally does NOT apply to the embossed lettering, so it's good you wrote. Red dye does so often bleed onto white parts. I can only say this; wash as instructed (ALONE or with other non-bleeding garments) and tumble dry, as instructed. If you follow the care label to the T, and it bleeds onto the white, you can take it back to the retailer. Let us know!
Best —The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Bonnielie, While I've seen these issues before—and it's entirely strange that it only happens on red garments—it usually turns out to be a result of something bizarre or unintuitive, so you have to think outside the box! My guess is that it's one of these things: there is a latent stain on the ALL the red garments, that once it mixes with the detergent and the drying cycle it causes it to turn blue; that you use some kind of body lotion, hair product, or such that contains an acid that causes the blotchy spots to appear; that the machine is intermittently leaking an oily mess that shows blue on red, and it just happens on red items?
These weird occurrences are always hard to solve, so you have to keep thinking and experimenting. Do you use any fabric softeners, as they can cause similar discolorations? Call us if you'd like to discuss it live!
Best —The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Chana, how large is the affected area; dime, quarter, or larger? There are ways to cover up or darken color loss, but it will need re-treatment after every cleaning. Needless to say, NEVER rub a stain; BLOT only! Did you use a napkin to do the damage? Some drycleaners have "Dye Pads" that would restore the color, or you might try going to an art supply store and testing magic makers and other pigments, a small area at a time. I know this sounds hokey and unprofessional, but color loss is difficult to restore.
Call if you need help! — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Reba, I have no idea without seeing it, but I would try rewashing at the hottest temperature allowed, and air dry it. If you want to send a photo ... If you still can't solve the issue, take the blouse to the best drycleaner in town for another opinion.
Let me know if you need more help — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Stacy, you would probably have to remove the white netting and dye-strip, or beach just the netting, then resew and reattach to navy jacket. However, if you followed the care instructions, and it failed in washing, then the garment should go back to the retailer (and manufacturer).
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Celeste, this is a very difficult restoration because neon colors can have a pigment that's hard to remove, especially when talking about hot pink, and cotton fabrics (or blended fabrics). I would try rewashing the yellow sweaty, and then air drying it. If still no luck, and you really want to try and "save" the sweaty, then I would show it to a great drycleaner. Again, I hate to always recommend a cleaner—as folks hope to fix it themselves with my advice—but it's hard to give pat answers when I can't see the garment and when the consumer has already tried various approaches that compromise future removal by a professional!
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: L.A., beer contains sugars and other food particles, like alcohol, that can age and caramelize a fabric. This means that the stain may have set. However, if the fabric CAN be wetcleaned, a skilled drycleaner may be able to restore it ... Beer is a water-based stain, so the dress will need water to hopefully remove it. Please let me know if I can be of further help.
Best - Steve, The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Cathy, it depends on the amount of blood, the location of the blood—if you've done anything to it yet—and the age of the blood. Most blood stains will come out of navy wool, but the lining can be a challenge. Blood does NOT come out in drycleaning, so the suit will require a lot of "hand work" and personal attention, depending on the amount of blood. Question the drycleaner you choose to make sure they've had experience with blood stains of this magnitude.
Best - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Lori, some sweaters, and other "dryclean only" fabrics can withstand a home stain remover. I could tell you if the sweater could be drycleaned if I knew more, but you can still take the sweater to be drycleaned, even with the stain remover in the fabric. I would, however, be sure to tell someone "in the know" at the drycleaners that you did apply the stain remover on the cranberry juice.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Susan, first of all, I usually acquiesce to the care instruction label; does it say it can be washed? Linen is usually washable (depending on the color, which you did not mention), but it can fade, change texture (softness), and may develop "hard" wrinkles. The rayon part may shrink or lose body, too—and may even bleed or fade. Re-check the label and, if you decide to wash it, hand wash it and air dry it, just to make sure it makes it through that process. In the long run, it may make sense to dryclean it, but if you are comfortable with hand washing, give it a shot! I would like to know the color, first, before giving you a full pass!
Best - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Mason, If it's like most packs, it would probably wash well. Tuck in straps and hardware, or use a mesh net to protect the hardware. (They are avail on www.clothingdoctor.com). You could test a small part of the pack by dabbing it with some water and detergent to see if the dyes are secure. You should maybe air dry the pack, after washing.
Best - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Alex, you did not mention the color or fabric of the suit, but it may need professional help! Fabrics that get wet and form a ring or a stain are usually a result of impurities in the water, or sizings in the fabric. Either way, they are usually removed by re-wetting the area and then drying it quickly to avoid another ring or stain. However, the trick is to wet the fabric enough to flush or force the stained matter from the fabric, but not to over-wet it, causing a bigger stain. Let me know if I can be of further help! 303.443.3232
Best - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Natalie, It's tough to know the answer to this without seeing and inspecting the outfit, but I can tell you that heat from drying could, over time, affect the elastic and lycra and stretch memory. However, if the outfit cannot be altered, and you won't wear it unless it shrinks, I would try tumbling it on a low temperature to see if it helps. If it does help, then do it again, and maybe increase the heat a bit. It's always best to take it slowly, one step at a time.
Best - The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Jenny, most oily, and oil-based stains do very well with drycleaning; food oil, body oil, wax, lipstick—and all things containing grease or oil. Drycleaning does NOT remove water-based stains naturally during the cleaning cycle. Soda, coffee, perspiration, food coloring, sugars, and all other water-soluable (need water to remove) are worked specifically by hand, or wetcleaned. The better the drycleaner, the better the water-based stain removal.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Jon, sorry to hear about your troubles. These are touchy restorations, so I'm going to suggest that you take it to a good drycleaner to discuss the options. The raised lettering (I'm assuming) can sometimes be restored, but it will take more than just soaking in color-safe bleach, but you could try it, without a disaster, I believe.
Good luck. Write back if you need more info!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Christina, if the garments are worth the effort and price, a drycleaner should be able to remove the black stains. You could also try doing it at home with Spray & Wash and a Rust Remover. But be sure to air dry the clothing, so stains are not set! If you're not comfortable doing this, then consult a cleaner.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Quiniece, it's hard to say if the fabric will fade, but there are typically 2 issues at hand here; the purple dye is usually NOT as firm or strong as typical blue jean dye, and the purple may be as fragile as blue indigo dye; secondly, if you rubbed it, then it could fade. I would just wash and air dry, as usual. If you have a problem, or experience fading or color loss get in touch!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Kim, that's one of the best lessons to learn ... early on. Most water-based stains that have color, such as coffee, do form a ring when water, soap or stain removers are applied. The viscose does pose a challenge, but as long as you did not RUB the fabric, a good drycleaner should be able to remove the ring. In the future, be very careful when applying water or soap to dryclean only garments. If it was washable, the coffee and the ring may have "come out in the wash," as they say!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Marissa, these "stains" could be part perspiration, part DEO, part fabric degradation. You did not mention the fabric content, so I don't know if it contains acetate, or some other delicate fabric. The underarm (U/A) "stain, could be a combination of DEO, perspiration, and the cleaner's attempt to remove the discoloration, possibly causing some of the color loss or whitening. I really would suggest that you call me directly at 303.443.3232, to do address this thoroughly, but here are some of the issues:
What is the exact fabric content
What is the color of the garment (dark colors tend to show DEO stains more)
Do you perspire more than the average person
Do you allow your DEO to dry completely before dressing
Do you bathe after each wearing
AND do you ever wear the noted dress(s) more than once between cleaning
I hope this helps!
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Dallas, without seeing the shirt it's hard to say ... so I have some questions, which you can answer on Forum, or directly to me:
Did you rewash the shirt after applying the Spray & Wash? Is that when the white blotches appeared?
Did you rub the fabric with the S&W on it? Could the splotches be color loss or fading?
Can you email a picture of the blotches to steve@clothingdoctor.com
Best —The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Jennifer, my guess is that these jeans are an Indigo Blue? I need to ask if you've washed the jeans ... and how many times? The "loose" dye should dissipate after a few washings. Are the leggings a lighter color, and have they been washed ... with any success?
Please get back to me.
Best — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Candice, the only way to brighten linen is through wetcleaning (controlled washing,) and possibly bleaching. It works quite well, actually. What to consider first:
If the skirt is lined, and sewn in at the bottom & sides, then I would send it to the best drycleaner in town to do the work because of shrinkage and loss of sizing.
If the skirt is unlined—and you're ok with hand washing—then it can probably be soaked in detergent & color-safe bleach for 30-60 minutes and AIR DRIED. Any sink or bucket works.
If the skirt is hand washed and bleached, it could lose it's sizing, leaving it limp. A good drycleaner could add back sizing and re-press it for you.
Submerge the skirt in 6" of warm water and watch it brighten over the hour. Then rinse and lay flat on a white towel.
Gently "shape" the linen to be flat and even at the hem. Let dry and adjust as necessary.
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
Answer: Hi Diane, I am not sure what the lines are, but I'm guessing it's from uneven drying. Not knowing the fabric, I can't recommend anything along those lines, but I would re-wet or re-wash it, spin it, and lay it over 2 hangers (too avoid stretching and bagging), to see if that helps. It's possible that re-wetting or re-washing and lying it flat will work the second time.
Good Luck — The Clothing Doctor
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